Fes – just fabulous

We arrived in Morocco, first stop Fes and it was hot. Very hot. Only mad dogs and tourists are out in this 44 degree heat! A taxi from the airport quickly took us to the sounds, smells and sights of the medina – the old quarter. The medina looks as if it has come straight out of Beau Geste (old French colonial movie – lots of desert and sandy forts to defend). There was the Blue Gate leading to the medina proper – a labyrinth of narrow streets with stalls selling everything from cell phones to local made carpets and bursting with people. The smell of cooking food was great but alas we are avoiding street food. David was brave enough to get a haircut in the medina though. Fes is the home of artisans making carpets, pottery, apothecary in the traditional manner passed down through families over the centuries, as well as of course, leather goods from the famous tannery that has been in existence for about a thousand years.

One thing that struck us was just how clean the place was. While there is a huge amount of plastic waste blowing around outside the medina, inside it was really clean and no smell! Even in the tannery, where you are given bushels of mint to ward off the smells, there was barely a whiff. In the morning and evening the owners of the stalls, riads and house doorways sprinkle water and scrub the paths in front. This keeps everywhere clean. Also, there were no flies (unlike Australia!!). Amazing. 

We did do a guided tour of the medina, as going solo would just lead us to getting completely lost. We were treated to some amazing sights like the oldest university in the world, a museum dedicated to the woodcraft of the region, an apothecary making oils and shampoo, the tannery, carpet makers and lots of very narrow streets – so narrow only one person can walk through at a time!

We also visited the Royal Palace – much talked about by all the locals. We were somewhat bemused to get there and discover that you are unable to go in but merely stand outside the walls and admire the gates!! Which were admirable – we enjoyed the palm tree’s surrounding the walls better! We also went to the Jnan Sbil gardens which was an oasis in the heat – wonderful tree’s, plants, fountains and hundreds of people enjoying the cool lushness in the midst of this very hot and monochrome city.

Fes is a very special place and has a great atmosphere, very relaxed and not pushy at all. We met some wonderful people and enjoyed our time in and around this ancient city. Really great fun and a must for anyone going to Morocco.

The Blue Gate entrance to the medina
Familiels bring their daily bread here to be baked at the communal ovens.

Get your camel here….

Families pass on traditional tannery skills used for past 1000 years.
The tannery – using “Pigeon poo” to help soften the leather.
Carpet weaving

The wool is coloured using natural dyes – saffron, indigo, poppies etc
Narrow lanes everywhere – easy to get lost
Good luck prayers posted here on the side of the mosque
Lots of artisans at work
Traditional religious school the madrasa
The wood museum
Royal Fes Palace – the exterior!

Palace gates – as far as we could go. The guards did not like us walking too close to the walls
Fes seen from outside the old city walls

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